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Extra info for Allure (May 2015)

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One unusual design detail of the jacket is its side-adjustors: rather than simply pulling the jacket in at their placing, on this jacket they are attached to an elastic belt that runs along the full waistline at the back, making for a snug fit. aviation jacket 36 37 LEWIS LEATHERS The biker jacket had long been a fashion staple by the time this Lewis Leathers Phantom model was created in the 1970s. The famed Perfecto model had been developed by Schott for a Harley Davidson dealer during the 1930s; it reached 1970s iconic status and sealed its rebellious image thanks to Marlon Brando’s misfit wearing one in the 1953 film The Wild One.

34 RIGHT: Typical of motorcycle jackets of the period, this was to be worn tight on the chest and tucked into the trousers of the suit – almost like a shirt. 35 Abbey Leather The label shows what looks to be a bearded pipe-smoking shepherd, but also proclaims Abbey Leather, the British manufacturer of this 1940s sports jacket, to be a producer of ‘motor & aviation equipment’. Certainly civilian and some 1940s private flying continued during World War II, which would have necessitated the necessary kit.

James Grose, selling under its brand name Jagrose, developed not only effective jackets and cropped trousers, but distinctive ones, with the shoulder, elbow, hip and knee quilting effect shown here becoming a signature. This tight-fitting jacket has a woollen inner part that buttons into the same in the trousers to provide top-to-toe insulation beneath the leather cocoon. Motorcycle suit 32 RIGHT: Squared, reinforced padding for protection give the suit a distinctive look unique at the time to the manufacturer James Grose.

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Allure (May 2015)


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